During my first placement week I have been working on some patterns for a fitted bespoke tailored jacket for a client. The client wanted the jacket to fit as well as one that he already has so I have been using this jacket as a guide for the pattern pieces. The images above show how I have been creating the patterns based on a similar style jacket that we have taken apart whilst adapting the measurements in order to fit the client.
Once I was happy that the pattern was accurate and would have a nice fit to it I pinned half the jacket to the manikin as if it was the real thing and was made out of fabric. The images above show how the jacket would fit if it wear on a real person, it also shows where each pocket would sit on the jacket and I have tested them out using the paper patterns so that they are really working pockets, this gives me as much accuracy as possible and shows me what the pockets, collar and the overall fit of the jacket will look like once it is tested in fabric. The jacket consists of one welt pocket with a flap and one piped jetted pocket, creating these pockets out of paper and fitting them to the manikin was difficult and took a lot of time as it is hard enough to achieve when trying to make them out of fabric let alone paper.
The jacket pattern has taken a great deal of time to make and still needs some tweaking here and there however it is almost ready to be toiled and the process was a lot quicker to do then a usual jacket of this kind due to some of the most accurate technical flats I have ever seen. This sped up the whole process and meant that I constantly had a guide to look at, I also now know the areas I can improve upon when it comes to my own technical drawings. This week has been great I've loved working on this jacket and have learnt so much about how many pieces go into making a tailored jacket (for this particular jacket it is 30 pieces.) Putting the pieces together on the stand taught me about how a jacket is constructed which confused ma a lot at first because there were shapes I hadn't seen before and patterns which I had no idea where they belonged. Not only do I have a better understanding of how to construct a tailored jacket but I'm also clearer about what fabrics are used and how much hand sewing goes into creating a jacket and also some of the different stitches used such as a Chevron stitch which is used to baste the fabric together and helps to create the structure of the jacket.